Darts, or fishes as they were sometimes referred to, are quite common in men's clothing of the 19th century, helping to better fit the clothing to the …
Notebook
Sewing with a Tailor’s Thimble
We all must have that one friend, or perhaps it is our self that is guilty, who insists upon sewing without the use of any thimble. I will admit I was …
Developing the Tailor’s ‘Rock of Eye’
If one enters the world of tailoring (in any era), it is usually not long before you hear of some mythical era of tailoring when tailors could do …
Constructing Embroidered Covered Buttons
Constructing an accurate and quality frock coat is all about the details. One such detail is the buttons, often covered in fabric and which could take …
Waxing and Pressing Sewing Thread
Have you ever been plagued with knots or fraying threads while doing some hand sewing work? It can be a most frustrating event to be in the middle of …
Seersucker Waistcoat
Today I began a very 'unique' waistcoat, in that it's drafted using Devere's 1866 manual, has an 1890s or later styled collar, and is made out of a …
Constructing a Jetted Pocket
The Jetted or Jeated Pocket is one of the most common pocket types, and forms the basis for many other pocket styles used in coats, waistcoats, and …
Drafting a Gentleman’s Night Cap
For a slight change of pace, we will learn how to draft a gentleman's nightcap today. I was in need of one a few months ago, and whipped the whole …
Constructing Plait Pockets in a Frock Coat
Plait or pleat pockets in a frock coat are often misunderstood, construction wise, and can be tricky to do correctly. Studying an original coat in my …
The Art of the Hand-Tailored Buttonhole
Hand-tailored buttonholes are a thing of beauty, and in the hands of a skilled tailor, can make a coat stand out amongst others. Properly sewn, they …