So doing the fitting of the vest. I’ve gone straight from Devere 1866. I didn’t add the 1 quarter inch to the bottom hem or front seam. (Devere seems to indicate the is ease in the pattern for that already)
I assume that I should overlap the front by and inch and a half for initial fitting. If feels a little long, but I assume that an inch on the bottom hem will be taken up by the hem (my hand shows my natural waist, although I am rather portly). There are some diagonal wrinkles that form from the outside shoulder to the bottom center when I raise my arms.
Should I pin up the back at all like the buckle will?
So I took a stab at this. I cut away in the upper forward quarter of each armsyce to remove the diagonal wrinkles. I then cut away at the lower forward quarter to remove the bunching under the arm. I now need to transfer this to the test pattern and recut to double check.
That solution to remove the wrinkles sounds right to me, as I’ve had to do that with a number of people. Our arms / shoulder positions often defer from what Devere considers the proportionate man, hence the issues.
I usually don’t pin up the back as it’s usually enough just to know there is some excess back there. But if you want to just to get a better feel for things then I’d go ahead.
For the overlap in the front, when seam allowances are added, it should be about 3/8 from the buttons to the seam, and 1/4″ seam allowance, so that would make 1 1/4″ overlap, but this could also vary depending on what distance you prefer the buttons from the front, etc.
For the bottom hem, I actually use a separate facing, so you may want to shorten that slightly, leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance. That’s something that could be adjusted later on if necessary, though.
Hope this helps,
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