Open-Top Pocket Construction – Part II
With the pocket bags assembled, we can now install them into the trousers. First, we need to trim the trouser fronts to match the shape of our pocket …
Open-Top Pocket Bag Construction
To begin construction of the pocket bags and facings, first transfer any stripes or plaids to the rear facing pattern. Cut out two of each type of …
Drafting Open-Top Trouser Pockets
Drafting an open-top pocket is slightly more involved than the side-seam pocket, due to the special facings and shapes involved, but after a couple of …
Measurements for an Unlined Linen Paletot
All measurements should be taken over what you will wear underneath this coat, if possible. That’d mean a period shirt, trousers, and waistcoat …
Sewing a Rolled Hem by Hand
Shirts and other similar garments of the mid-19th century were often hemmed with what is known as a rolled hem, a very narrow – 1/8″ or …
Finishing up the Shirt
I finally finished up the pleated-front shirt project. First off was hemming the shirt with a rolled hem, entirely by hand. This is a fun little …
Attaching the Collar
Continuing on with the shirt construction, I started putting the body of the shirt together by gathering the back into the yoke. This makes the shirt …
Attaching the Pleats to the Shirt Front
With the pleats done, it’s time to attach them to the shirt front. The long sides are pinned and then basted securely. The long edges at the …
Pleating the Shirt Front
With the shirt drafted and fitted, I began work on the pleated front section. Linen has a tendency to skew out of square due to the nature of the …